Ocean: 100, Kim:1

Update: I just went out for a surf today (Sunday morning) and I stood up my first REAL wave. It was about 3 ft and I rode it all the way into the beach. (I had some help from Josh picking the wave and a little push for the paddle, but otherwise all me). It was an amazing feeling. Am hooked. Woo-hoo!!

After a few dodgy Aussie lessons, many, many bruises, a stinger encounter, and about 100 wipeouts... Mission accomplished! Kind of. My surfing has been improving over the last week and I am now able to stand up and ride waves all the way into the beach! I had said that if we were going to live in Oz, I was not leaving until I had learned to surf. On the surface, I can check that off the list, however I still want to tackle the bigger waves that Noosa is famous for... so I'm still trying to get out as much as I can. It is a great day when I can go for a surf, then lay out in the sun for a while, then finally roll into work for a dinner shift. Pretty sweet.

I am really starting to love surfing, despite the fact that I am still having some pretty spectacular wipe outs and the fact that Josh often makes me get up early to get the good waves. It's a cool feeling to stand up a wave and ride it in. In these photos I had an impromptu session, as Mars and I were chillin on the beach and Josh called to say he was bringing the boards and the camera. Normally, I would not be wearing a bikini with metal clasps (ouch, hip bones) and I would be wearing a rashie (a wetsuit like t-shirt) that helps to keep your top on when you bail. As a result, I had to keep re-tying my bikini top in the waves and ended up taking my board in the face during one such "adjustment" when a wave came along mid-tie! haha. These photos were taken at a beach area in Noosa called The Groin, and the waves were bigger then they look in the photos (trust me!). Hopefully I will have some more pics to post once I can tackle the bigger waves... but when I tried yesterday, I got yelled at by the old surfer dudes for being out there because I was a learner! (One guy told me to paddle in, and another looked at me and said "Do you even know how to ride that thing?" haha... I'll show them!). Until then, I will keep up the tough task of going out as often as I can in the sun and having a great time learning, falling, and occasionally riding a few in...